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A hamster is a rodent belonging to subfamily Cricetinae. The subfamily contains about 18 species, classified in six or seven genera. Most have expandable cheek
pouches, which reach from their cheeks to their shoulders.
Species of hamsters
The best known species is the Syrian Hamster, also known as the
Golden Hamster, Mesocricetus auratus, which is commonly kept as a pet. Two other
varieties of hamster are also growing in popularity as pets, the Dwarf Campbell's Russian and the Winter
White Russian Hamsters (both subspecies of Phodopus sungorus). Two further species (the Chinese Hamster
Cricetulus curtatus and the Roborovski Hamster Phodopus roborovskii) can be found on occasion. Also extremely
popular since its discovery around 1985 or 1986 is a mutation of the Syrian Hamster known as the "Black Bear" hamster; more
docile than most hamsters, it is black with a white patch of fur at the neck.
Hamsters as pets
Hamsters are nocturnal by nature, making them less than ideal as pets for
people who are normally awake during the day. However, many people prefer them to rats, given
rats' unsavory reputation (undeserved as pets). Unlike rats, they are not particularly good at learning tricks but can be
entertaining to watch. They are also much smaller than guinea pigs, although
equally as furry and appealing, so are more appropriate for homes with limited space.
Housing
Hamsters can be kept both in cages and in terrariums, both of which are
available in pet stores. Cages are easier to carry, their bars can be used for climbing, and they usually include a convenient
front door. On the other hand, glass boxes keep hamsters from throwing litter out of their cages, provide a better view into the
hamster's home, and create a quieter and more sheltered interior. In general, terrariums are more appropriate for dwarf hamsters,
which are more sensitive to a disquieting environment and which would otherwise need very narrow-grid bars to keep them from
slipping through. Middle-sized hamsters, such as the Golden Hamster, especially enjoy climbing the cage walls (the cage should
have horizontal and vertical bars) and are more open to the outside world, which is why cages might be the better choice for this
kind of hamsters.
In spite of the hamster's small size, appropriate housings should always have a floor space of at least 40 cm by 60
cm (16 by 24 inches) and be at least 40 cm (24 inches) in height. Glass boxes must not be higher than their width to allow for a
sufficient air circulation. Although smaller in size, dwarf hamsters should have bigger housings than their larger relatives, at
least 80 cm by 40 cm (2 feet by 4 feet). The reason for this is that the dwarfs are very active, running and digging a lot, but
they often cannot be taken outside their houses for long, because they are not comfortable there and, due to their smaller size,
are more endangered when leaving their domicile. Usually hamsters with a bigger and more interesting home will live longer and
provide more visual entertainment.
In addition to buying the common housings sold in stores, you can also build customized dwellings. In this case, use only
materials that are not dangerous to the animals. Plywood and wood from conifers is not suitable, because hamsters gnaw at their houses and both glue and resin are poisonous for them. Using standard water-soluble
white wood glue to join pieces of solid wood, such as birch or beech wood, creates a safe environment for the hamster, although you must check frequently to ensure that the
hamster is not gnawing through the wood. You can also equip a purchased cage with several intermediate levels, connected using
stairs. Using wire grid for these platforms instead of solid wood causes serious injuries and is therefore not recommended.
The narrow and smooth plastic toy housings that can be found in some stores are usually not appropriate as the sole habitat
for hamsters. The tight tubes are often densely closed, preventing sufficient air circulation, and the plastic surfaces, while
easily cleanable, cannot absorb the hamster's urine like natural materials. The result is a damp and uncomfortable climate that
is a perfect habitat for germs and fungi. In
addition, synthetic materials are unhealthy when used for gnawing, making plastic tubes, "space stations", and houses an improper
and unnatural (though often expensive) permanent home for hamsters. Reserve these habitats for supervised play and activity.
The perfect place for the hamster's home is a well-lit room of constant, moderate temperature (18°C to 26°C, 64 to 80F), in a
place without strong solar irradiation that could cause dangerous heating. Especially when wire cages are used, it is also
important to avoid air draft. Though they cannot see very far, hamsters become more relaxed and curious when positioned somewhat
above the ground (at least 65cm (2 feet)), from where they can perceive their surroundings.
Cover the inside of the hamster's residence, including all intermediate levels, with a sufficiently thick layer of wooden
litter for rodents, available in pet stores. Although alternative materials may work as well, most of these bear additional
threats. Cat litter is dangerous, because gnawing and eating the chunks is deadly.
Hamsters are nest builders and a steady supply of fresh strips of tissue or newspaper (with soy-based ink) allows them to
build a secure and comfortable spot in a corner of their enclosure or in their hiding house. Hay, from shops or even fresh from
the garden, is also a valuable building material for cozy hamster nests, which, as an additional bonus, is also perfectly
edible.
Hamsters are fairly neat in their bathroom habits; if their enclosure is regularly cleaned, they choose one small location in
which to urinate and defecate, making the cleaning simple.
A nice addition to the standard interior is a sand bath, as described below.
The hamster's home must be cleaned regularly by exchanging the litter where necessary. Hamsters are neat animals and usually
pick specific spots for urination, making a selective cleaning possible. Homes should be cleaned at least once a week, although
once in two weeks might suffice for small hamsters that have many (usually hidden) places used as toilets. Regular cleaning is
crucial for the hamster's health.
Another important component of a hamster's home is a hiding place where the animal can rest during the day. Not all
commercially available houses are adequate. The houses should be of sufficient size and be closed on at least two sides. The same
building materials are appropriate for these as for the larger cages, although even a small cardboard box will work (and which
will have to be regularly replaced). Some houses add features such as a removable roof that helps to take away collected food
(especially perishable items).
Hamsters are solitary animals and prefer to be alone most of the time. While sometimes two or more animals can live peacefully
within one home, there can be bloody fights. In their natural habitat, there is substantially more empty space so that each
hamster can have its own large territory. If more than one hamster is to live in a cage, then the cage must be larger (at least
40cm x 40cm per hamster) and there must be separate hiding houses for each animal. In any case, even after a long period of
peaceful coexistence or even mating, there can be violent biting. In this situation, the hamsters should be separated
immediately. Note also that, if a male and female hamster live together without fighting, then they will usually reproduce
rapidly, thereby causing more space problems.
Gnawing
Despite their cuddly appearance, hamsters have long, thin, sharp teeth than can pierce a finger that is mistaken for a carrot
or for a predator. When they are accustomed to being handled and are not startled, however, they are not inclined to bite and can
be placed in the custody of responsible school-age children. Like many rodents, their teeth grow continuously and they must have
appropriate things to chew on to relieve their instinctive gnawing and to help keep the teeth at a healthy length. They will gnaw
on whatever is available, so they must be kept in enclosures that they cannot chew through. When the hamster is kept in or near a
bedroom, their nocturnal nature combined with their gnawing habit can become distracting.
Exercise and Entertainment
Like all pets, hamsters need exercise and entertainment to maintain their physical and mental health. An exercise wheel allows
hamsters to run full speed to their hearts' content, but is not as mentally stimulating as more elaborate enclosures including
additional toys such as plastic or wooden tubes that somewhat mimic the burrows that they might have in the wild and allow their
owners to enjoy their activities.
Clear plastic hamster balls or cars are available, into which the hamster is placed and then, by its own action, explores an
entire house or yard. Use these toys only under supervision and use common sense. Unsupervised hamsters in these toys
can become trapped against furniture and panic or they can roll down stairs, injuring themselves. Do not leave them in these toys
for extended periods, especially on warm days, and make sure to remove them frequently and allow them access to water or fresh
fruits or vegetables. Toys should always invite the hamster to explore and use them at its own will, without forcing or
violence.
If they are handled frequently, hamsters enjoy being out of their enclosures and having the opportunity to explore. However,
they must be kept away from holes in the wall or in large pieces of furniture, because they will seek out the dark and
burrow-like confines of those areas and can be difficult or impossible to convince to come out again.
Food
Pet stores can provide basic food for hamsters that provides their nutritional needs, but they also enjoy fresh vegetables and fruits, bird seed, and even living
insects, which make up an important part of their natural diet. However, not any
nutrition is suitable for hamsters and some food, such as sweets made for humans or poisonous plants like the leaves of
the tomato, may be most dangerous for the hamster's health. Like with most other
animals (and humans), it is not true that hamsters can decide which food is good for them and they will usually eat anything that
is offered.
Hamsters should also always have fresh water available. Appropriate drinking devices can be found in stores. Being small
animals that are adapted to the life in arid environments, hamsters can also ingest all necessary liquid via sufficient amounts
of watery vegetables, such as cucumber, without any negative effects. However, providing water is usually more convenient and can
be an easy way to add medication or vitamins to the hamsters diet. Both water and
vegetables must be fresh and have to be exchanged frequently, usually once a day. Water must not be given in open jars, since it
is likely to be polluted and because wetness is generally very unhealthy for hamsters (that clean themselves very carefully
without the need of additional water).
In detail, the solid food components can be divided into three categories: dry, fresh, and animal food. Dry
food usually makes up the main part in this listing. Besides the standard rodent food sold in pet
stores, most other kinds of seeds, kernels, and nuts can be given. Care should be taken to limit the amount of fat contained within the diet. Especially
sunflower seeds, nuts, almonds, and sesame are
most nutritive and are to be considered as a treat rather than as basic food. All kinds of grain, rice, noodles (dry), dry peas and lentils on the other hand can be provided less restrictively: about 120g for a medium
hamster and, depending on size, about half the amount for a dwarf hamster is sufficient. Bread and similar bakery products contain many ingredients (e.g. yeast) that
can trouble the hamster's digestion system. They should be given in small amounts for gnawing or be replaced by special
wafers as found in pet stores. All dry food should be appropriate in size. Especially small hamsters often
cannot cope well with large seeds, even if they are sold under the label "hamster food". Bird food like millet is a noteworthy alternative for small hamsters.
Hay, although belonging to the dry food as well, should be provided in
large amounts at any time. It does not contain notable amounts of fat, still is liked by most hamsters, supports the hamster's
digestion system, serves as a hiding place, and is often used for nest building. In addition it is cheap and can even be produced
in the own garden easily.
Fresh food is also an important part of the hamster's diet. As mentioned above, cucumber is
a good supplier of water. Fresh grass, carrot, all kinds of lettuce,
leaves and even branches of (non-poisonous) plants are also no problem in general. However, no
conifer wood must be fed since resin is
poisonous for hamsters. In smaller amounts, grown hamsters also appreciate apple, pear, sweet paprika, tomato (only red parts), banana, mango, strawberry, and even small pieces of orange. Too much sweet fruits on the other hand are not healthy. All kinds of cabbage should rather be avoided, since they may cause flatulence, which is quite dangerous for the hamster's sensitive digestion system.
Very young hamsters (6-8 Weeks) should get only carrot and small grains. Even water can damage their digestion system and be a
deadly danger. Ill hamsters are also preferably provided with a more conservative diet. If accepted, herbs can also help to strengthen the hamster's health, though they cannot replace a veterinarian in case of a disease. Daisy (try the flowers!) and dandelions are
likewise appreciated. Yet, plants should never be taken from places near streets because hamsters are more sensitive to chemical
pollutions, due to their small body weight.
Finally animal food is a major component of some hamsters natural food. As pets, a large part of this can be
replaced by dry food. Still hamsters need some animal proteins for their health. While some people like to provide living
insects from pet stores to their hamsters, others will prefer to give them dry dog biscuits. Some
hamsters are known to accept yogurt (natural, without sweet
ingredients) or soft cheese (low fat, not too salty), and in any case
egg noodles are usually taken gratefully. If (dry or soft) dog or cat food is given, then the fat content has to
be checked carefully. Furthermore, it must not contain molasses, which would harm
the hamster.
In addition, a special salt stone (available in pet stores) belongs into every hamster cage. Although this
huge amount of mineral salts is hardly used up by generations of hamsters, it is necessary for their life. Vitamin
additives for rodents are not required and usually fresh vegetables are to be preferred. Yet, if the hamster is diseased
or ill-nourished, vitamins or medicaments may be needed.
There is also some food that a hamster should never get. This includes all kinds of human
sweets, such as chocolate or candy, which are unhealthy and even dangerous.
Furthermore, poisonous plants (also check indoor plants if the hamster is taken outside its housing) constitute
a considerable danger. Other than this, mainly the various unhealthy and chemically treated products usually consumed by humans
can cause problems.
Reproduction and longevity
Hamsters typically live no more than two to four years in captivity, less than that in the wild. Because of their short life
expectancy, hamsters mature quickly and can begin reproducing at a young age (3 months?). Left to their own devices, hamsters
will produce several litters a year with several babies in each litter. Male and female hamsters are therefore usually kept in
separate enclosures to prevent the addition of unwanted offspring.
When seen from above, a sexually mature female hamster has a trim tail line; a male's tail line bulges on both sides.
Classification of hamsters
Taxonomists currently disagree about the most appropriate placement of the subfamily Cricetinae. Some place it in a family
Cricetidae that also includes
voles, lemmings and some other genera; others
group all these into the larger family Muridae.
The following list of species may not be complete.
Genus Mesocricetus
- Syrian Hamster (Golden Hamster) - Mesocricetus
auratus
- Turkish Hamster Mesocricetus brandti. Also called the Brandts' Hamster, Azerbajaini Hamster
- Georgian Hamster Mesocricetus raddei (Also: Ciscaucasian Hamster)
- Romanian Hamster Mesocricetus newtoni
Genus Phodopus
- Djungarian Hamster Phodopus sungorus; two subspecies are
recognised, the Siberian Hamster proper or White Russian Hamster, Phodopus sungorus sungorus, and Campbell's Dwarf
Russian Hamster Phodopus sungorus campbelli
- Mongolian Hamster Phodopus roborovskii, more commonly known as the Roborovskii Hamster. These tiny hamsters are now
becoming popular as pets.
Genus Calomyscus
- Mouselike Hamster Calomyscus bailwardi. Sub-species include: C. bailwardi baluchi, C. bailwardi
mystax, C. bailwardi urartensis
Genus Cricetus
- European Hamster Cricetus cricetus (Also called the Common Hamster or Black-bellied Field Hamster)
Genus Cricetulus
- Mongolian Hamster Cricetulus baranensis (Also: Chinese striped hamster)
- Mongolian Hamster Cricetulus curtatus
- Long-tailed Hamster Cricetulus longicaudatus
- Tibetan Hamster Cricetulus kamensis
- Kazakh Hamster Cricetulus eversmani (Also: Eversmann's Hamster)
- Chinese Hamster Cricetulus curtatus. These are now becoming popular as pets; because of their small size, they are
inaccurately referred to as "dwarf" hamsters.
- Ratlike Hamster Cricetulus triton. Also: Greater Longtailed Hamster, and the Korean Hamster.
- Ladak Hamster Cricetulus alticola
- Armenian Hamster Cricetulus migratorius. Also called the Migratory Grey Hamster
- Gobi Hamster Cricetulus obscurus
- Transbaikal Hamster - Cricetulus pseudogriseus
Genus Mystromys
- South African Hamster Mystromys albicaudatus
Animals that are not really hamsters
Note that there are some rodents sometimes called "hamsters" that are not currently classified in the hamster subfamily
Cricetinae. These include
- Maned Hamster, or Crested Hamster, which is really the Maned Rat Lophiomys imhausi (although not nearly as
marketable under that name.)
External links
Hamster is a computer jargon term referring to a cordless computer mouse that uses radio or infrared technology. The name derives from the fact that hamsters are similar to mice but lack tails.
Hamster is also programming jargon for a small self contained piece of code, like a hamster running in its
wheel.
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